No sooner had she put a cigarette between her lips than a willowy waitress with a tremendous smile blew over to our table. “I’m sorry,” she gasped, “smoking isn’t allowed in the cafe.” She couldn’t have been a minute …

The gravediggers come with deep darkness the night before the burial. They walk the edges of the boma, avoiding the company keeping vigil under the erected tents, the singing choir, and the mourners in heavy jackets huddled in hired …